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Hidden Valleys
Amidst the rugged, mountainous areas covering
most parts of the province, there exist the hidden kingdoms of people of the
hills who still have their own culture, tradition together with their
characteristics. Once being considered as a minority of Thai people, and cut off
the main stream culture, the hill tribe people became nowadays an integrated
part of Thai population; they have more relations with lowlands people that the
modern values along with the development start infiltrating and affecting their
culture. Despite that, they still retain their own traditional beliefs, cultures
as well as their own language at some remarkable degrees. Accordingly, it is a
good opportunity for visitors who are curious to learn or appreciate the
different culture in their kingdom hugged by the towering mountains. How they
live, believe, and earn their lives is actually worth learning.
The hill tribes did not start moving into hills
of northern Thailand until the 20th century when Communism in China, Laos, and
Vietnam burst out. For that reason, they migrated to find the relative peace in
Thailand. Most of hill tribe people migrated from the southern China via Myanmar
and Laos; and they settled their own community in the valleys along the mountain
ranges in northern Thailand.
There are six main groups of hill tribe people,
each of which is in turn divided into dozens of sub-tribes which own their
distinctive culture, tradition and belief. The six major tribes are: Karen
(Kariang, Yang), Hmong (Meo), Yao (Mien), Akha (Ekaw), Lisu (Lisaw), and Lahu (Mussur).
The main profession of all these tribes is farming and subsistent agriculture;
they used a shifting system of cultivation by moving the village when the land
became exhausted. Living in remote upland, the hill tribes were left undisturbed
until 1950's when they were facing their increasing numbers, their poverty, and
the treat of insurgency, resulting in the greater control of Thai Government.
Since then, Thai Government made the efforts to
integrate hills people into Thai society while holding on the primacy of
allowing them to preserve their culture. Primary education programs in upland
areas were consequently launched. However, their culture of shifting cultivation
to grow food corps and opium seemed controversial to national effort to preserve
watersheds against deforestation and to restrain drug production. These problems
were eventually resolved by the Royal Development Projects initiated by His
Majesty the King. The projects were put in action to encourage hill tribe people
to exert cash crops like temperate fruits and flowering plants; the projects
have been very successful. Nowadays, hill tribe villages reverted into cash
crops and suppressed opium cultivation.
Nevertheless, along with the flow of
development, it is a very concerning issue that their original cultural would be
swallowed by the commercial culture of lowlands. It is uncertain that in the
future, they will still retain their culture or will eventually be absorbed into
consuming society.
To appreciate the culture of the hill tribe
people, trekking with an experienced guide is the best way. On a trek, you will
be taken through the tracks in the hills leading to their villages to see their
traditional way of life. Each village possesses its characteristic lifestyle and
dress which serves as a differentiation between each group of them.
Hmong (Meo): Hmong is the second-largest
group of hill tribe people, moving into northern Thailand via Laos. The Hmong
villages are located in the north from Doi Inthanon to the Burmese border at the
high elevation which is suitable for opium cultivation. As a result, Hmong
people have become the country's leading producers of opium. They are divided
into two sub-groups: the Blue Hmong and the White Hmong. However, this color
distinction refers to costume type rather than linguistic or cultural
differences. Hmong houses are built on the ground in cluster, not on stilts as
are the other tribes'. In their family, they strictly practice a male-female
separation of labor. They believe in household spirits as well as souls, and
there is a shaman who is the ritual leader in each village. Traditional costume
for Hmong women includes short jacket in Chinese style, circular silver neck
rings, and pleated skirt decorated with elaborate embroidery. Men's clothes are
made of loose-fitting black material with embroidery on the jackets.
Akha (Ekaw): The Akha originally came
from Yunnan, China, moving into Thailand in the early 20th century. Akha
villages can be found near the Burmese border around Golden Triangle, but mainly
in Chiang Rai Province. The villages are distinguished by their carved wooden
gate, presided over by guardian spirits. Ancestral spirits are worshipped at an
alter in a house which is raised up and divided into separated sleeping quarters
for females and males. The Akha have one of the most dazzling costumes among
others'. Women's dress includes a long sleeved-jacket and short skirt dyed in
dark blue with indigo, embellished with embroidery and strips of colored cloth
decorated with coins and seeds. The most distinctive outfit of the Akha women is
the headdress which is an elaborate pile of cloth stretched over a bamboo frame
adorned with bird feathers, iridescent wings beetles or silver coins. Men tend
to wear loose jackets that may have embroidered strip down the front as well as
the back. Most villages have giant swings used during festivals and a courting
ground where young people congregate.
Karen (Kariang, Yang): The Karen is
Thailand's largest tribal group, moving into Thailand around the 17th century
and establishing their community in the western part of northern Thailand,
particularly, on the mountain ranges west and south of Doi Inthanon. Karens are
divided into many sub groups; the main sub groups living in Thailand are Skaw
who live in Mae Hong son and Pwo who live to the south of Mae Sarieng and north
of Chiang Mai. Karens live in a bamboo houses raised on stilts and exert farming
as their livelihood. Karen women are also skilled in sewing and dying. They
dress in white blouse and sarong with colorful patterns or beads for trim.
Female dress often indicate marital status: young girl wear cotton shifts while
married women wear colored sarongs and over blouse. Religious beliefs of Karens
vary from animism, Buddhism and Christianity.
Lahu (Musser): Since "Lahu",
the name of the tribe, means "hunter", the Lahu are proud of their
skills in hunting and trapping; they are also famous for their knowledge of
herbal medicine. Lahu people concentrate mainly in Chinag Dao and Fang districts
in Chinag Mai as well as around the Golden Triangle. They love entertainment and
the easy lifestyle; their most colorful and lively festival is New Year festival
which consists of continual dancing and music; men get a good chance to court
women during the festive days. Regarding their beliefs, souls, house spirits,
and nature spirits have a great influence on their way of life. Traditional
costume of Lahu is black robe embroidered with colorful zigzagged stitching and
silver ornament.
Lisu
(Lisaw): Lisu has their origins
from Yunnan province in China and are divided into six clans, but not all are
found in Thailand. The main subgroup of Lahu in Thailand is called "flowery",
settling near Chiang Dao and Fang districts in Chiang Mai as well as in Mae Hong
Son. The Lisu are perhaps the best-looking people of all tribes; they are also
out-going, sociable, and hard working. Lisu villages have a shrine for guardian
spirits, ancestral spirits together with nature spirits, indicating that Lisu
are animists. Lisu costumes are very distinct. Women wear a knee length tunic of
light blue or green cloth, often with red sleeves decorated with bands of bright
cloths; they also wear a plain belts from which hang multicolored tassels. Young
men wear trousers made of the same blue or green cloth while their jackets are
often of plain black material.
Mien (Yao): Called Yao by Thais, the
Mien originated in Southern China as a non-Han group before migrating into
Thailand via Laos between 1910 and 1950. Their villages can be found off Highway
118 near Pong Nam Ron and northeast of Tathon, but the majority concentrates in
Chiang Rai and Nan Provinces. Mien is the only one tribe which possesses the
written version for their language which is derived from Chinese language. Their
culture and religious belief are influenced by Taoism in China. The Mien prefer
living among low hills near the dense jungles; their houses sit on the ground
and feature a space used for setting a cooking fire at the center of the main
room of the house. In each individual house also has a shrine dedicated to their
ancestral and guardian spirits. Traditional costumes for Mien women is
recognized by the large black turbans with a bright red buff around their necks
and loose-fitting pants richly decorated with elaborate embroidery. Mien men
wear loose black jackets and loose-fitting black trousers.
The tribal villages that can be visited are:
Hmong Village-Doi Pui Mountain is 3
kilometers away from the palace. Apart from appreciating a simple lifestyle of
the Hmong, the surrounding area offers the spectacular panorama of Doi Inthanon.
The village can be easily reached due to its proximity to Chiang Mai town, only
1 hour from there. In the village, local products and hill tribe handicrafts are
sold.
Hmong Village-Mae Sa Mai is a place to
appreciate the authentically traditional lifestyle of Hmong hill tribe people.
The development from lowlands cannot reach the village so much that the Hmong
here still retain their way of life, profession and also folk art skills. To
reach the village, take the Mae Rim-Samoeng Route, and turn left at kilometer 12
for about 7 kilometers. The road is not paved and four-wheel-drive care is
required.
Khob Dong Village is a Musser or Lahu
village. The people here still live their lives so simply. The Royal project has
been established here to implement Mussers to exert economic agriculture and
handicraft. In front of the village, there is a demonstration and explanation of
life and tradition of Lahu people by teachers and students in the village. By
this way, you will appreciate their lifestyle and tradition without disturbing
their privacy too much.
Ban Nor Lae Village is a community of
the hill tribe people which recently migrated into the area in 1984, situated
near Thai-Burmese border. The people here are Pa Laung who initially inhabited
in Shan State, Myanmar. Pa Laungs speak a language related to the
Mon-Khmer linguistic family. They are praised for their skills in raising corps.
They are strict Buddhists and believe in nature as well as animal spirits. From
the village, you get the panoramic view of the Thai-Burmese border ahead.
Lisu Village-Huai Nam Ru or Doi Sam Muen
is located within the area of Chiang Dao district. Simple lifestyle of Lisu
people together with magnificent scenery is worth visiting. Nowadays, people are
encouraged to participate in Royal Project; there are cultivations of temperate
plants like coffee and other flowering plants. The village is 130 kilometers
away form Chiang Mai town along the Chiang Mai-Huai Nam Dang route; the journey
takes 4 hours.
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