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Hidden Valleys

Amidst the rugged, mountainous areas covering most parts of the province, there exist the hidden kingdoms of people of the hills who still have their own culture, tradition together with their characteristics. Once being considered as a minority of Thai people, and cut off the main stream culture, the hill tribe people became nowadays an integrated part of Thai population; they have more relations with lowlands people that the modern values along with the development start infiltrating and affecting their culture. Despite that, they still retain their own traditional beliefs, cultures as well as their own language at some remarkable degrees. Accordingly, it is a good opportunity for visitors who are curious to learn or appreciate the different culture in their kingdom hugged by the towering mountains. How they live, believe, and earn their lives is actually worth learning.

The hill tribes did not start moving into hills of northern Thailand until the 20th century when Communism in China, Laos, and Vietnam burst out. For that reason, they migrated to find the relative peace in Thailand. Most of hill tribe people migrated from the southern China via Myanmar and Laos; and they settled their own community in the valleys along the mountain ranges in northern Thailand.

There are six main groups of hill tribe people, each of which is in turn divided into dozens of sub-tribes which own their distinctive culture, tradition and belief. The six major tribes are: Karen (Kariang, Yang), Hmong (Meo), Yao (Mien), Akha (Ekaw), Lisu (Lisaw), and Lahu (Mussur). The main profession of all these tribes is farming and subsistent agriculture; they used a shifting system of cultivation by moving the village when the land became exhausted. Living in remote upland, the hill tribes were left undisturbed until 1950's when they were facing their increasing numbers, their poverty, and the treat of insurgency, resulting in the greater control of Thai Government.

Since then, Thai Government made the efforts to integrate hills people into Thai society while holding on the primacy of allowing them to preserve their culture. Primary education programs in upland areas were consequently launched. However, their culture of shifting cultivation to grow food corps and opium seemed controversial to national effort to preserve watersheds against deforestation and to restrain drug production. These problems were eventually resolved by the Royal Development Projects initiated by His Majesty the King. The projects were put in action to encourage hill tribe people to exert cash crops like temperate fruits and flowering plants; the projects have been very successful. Nowadays, hill tribe villages reverted into cash crops and suppressed opium cultivation.

Nevertheless, along with the flow of development, it is a very concerning issue that their original cultural would be swallowed by the commercial culture of lowlands. It is uncertain that in the future, they will still retain their culture or will eventually be absorbed into consuming society.

To appreciate the culture of the hill tribe people, trekking with an experienced guide is the best way. On a trek, you will be taken through the tracks in the hills leading to their villages to see their traditional way of life. Each village possesses its characteristic lifestyle and dress which serves as a differentiation between each group of them.

Hmong - Chiang MaiHmong (Meo): Hmong is the second-largest group of hill tribe people, moving into northern Thailand via Laos. The Hmong villages are located in the north from Doi Inthanon to the Burmese border at the high elevation which is suitable for opium cultivation. As a result, Hmong people have become the country's leading producers of opium. They are divided into two sub-groups: the Blue Hmong and the White Hmong. However, this color distinction refers to costume type rather than linguistic or cultural differences. Hmong houses are built on the ground in cluster, not on stilts as are the other tribes'. In their family, they strictly practice a male-female separation of labor. They believe in household spirits as well as souls, and there is a shaman who is the ritual leader in each village. Traditional costume for Hmong women includes short jacket in Chinese style, circular silver neck rings, and pleated skirt decorated with elaborate embroidery. Men's clothes are made of loose-fitting black material with embroidery on the jackets.

Akha (Ekaw): The Akha originally came from Yunnan, China, moving into Thailand in the early 20th century. Akha villages can be found near the Burmese border around Golden Triangle, but mainly in Chiang Rai Province. The villages are distinguished by their carved wooden gate, presided over by guardian spirits. Ancestral spirits are worshipped at an alter in a house which is raised up and divided into separated sleeping quarters for females and males. The Akha have one of the most dazzling costumes among others'. Women's dress includes a long sleeved-jacket and short skirt dyed in dark blue with indigo, embellished with embroidery and strips of colored cloth decorated with coins and seeds. The most distinctive outfit of the Akha women is the headdress which is an elaborate pile of cloth stretched over a bamboo frame adorned with bird feathers, iridescent wings beetles or silver coins. Men tend to wear loose jackets that may have embroidered strip down the front as well as the back. Most villages have giant swings used during festivals and a courting ground where young people congregate.

Karen (Kariang, Yang): The Karen is Thailand's largest tribal group, moving into Thailand around the 17th century and establishing their community in the western part of northern Thailand, particularly, on the mountain ranges west and south of Doi Inthanon. Karens are divided into many sub groups; the main sub groups living in Thailand are Skaw who live in Mae Hong son and Pwo who live to the south of Mae Sarieng and north of Chiang Mai. Karens live in a bamboo houses raised on stilts and exert farming as their livelihood. Karen women are also skilled in sewing and dying. They dress in white blouse and sarong with colorful patterns or beads for trim. Female dress often indicate marital status: young girl wear cotton shifts while married women wear colored sarongs and over blouse. Religious beliefs of Karens vary from animism, Buddhism and Christianity.

Lahu - Chiang MaiLahu (Musser): Since "Lahu", the name of the tribe, means "hunter", the Lahu are proud of their skills in hunting and trapping; they are also famous for their knowledge of herbal medicine. Lahu people concentrate mainly in Chinag Dao and Fang districts in Chinag Mai as well as around the Golden Triangle. They love entertainment and the easy lifestyle; their most colorful and lively festival is New Year festival which consists of continual dancing and music; men get a good chance to court women during the festive days. Regarding their beliefs, souls, house spirits, and nature spirits have a great influence on their way of life. Traditional costume of Lahu is black robe embroidered with colorful zigzagged stitching and silver ornament.

Lisu - Chiang MaiLisu (Lisaw): Lisu has their origins from Yunnan province in China and are divided into six clans, but not all are found in Thailand. The main subgroup of Lahu in Thailand is called "flowery", settling near Chiang Dao and Fang districts in Chiang Mai as well as in Mae Hong Son. The Lisu are perhaps the best-looking people of all tribes; they are also out-going, sociable, and hard working. Lisu villages have a shrine for guardian spirits, ancestral spirits together with nature spirits, indicating that Lisu are animists. Lisu costumes are very distinct. Women wear a knee length tunic of light blue or green cloth, often with red sleeves decorated with bands of bright cloths; they also wear a plain belts from which hang multicolored tassels. Young men wear trousers made of the same blue or green cloth while their jackets are often of plain black material.

Mien (Yao): Called Yao by Thais, the Mien originated in Southern China as a non-Han group before migrating into Thailand via Laos between 1910 and 1950. Their villages can be found off Highway 118 near Pong Nam Ron and northeast of Tathon, but the majority concentrates in Chiang Rai and Nan Provinces. Mien is the only one tribe which possesses the written version for their language which is derived from Chinese language. Their culture and religious belief are influenced by Taoism in China. The Mien prefer living among low hills near the dense jungles; their houses sit on the ground and feature a space used for setting a cooking fire at the center of the main room of the house. In each individual house also has a shrine dedicated to their ancestral and guardian spirits. Traditional costumes for Mien women is recognized by the large black turbans with a bright red buff around their necks and loose-fitting pants richly decorated with elaborate embroidery. Mien men wear loose black jackets and loose-fitting black trousers.

The tribal villages that can be visited are:

Hmong Village-Doi Pui Mountain is 3 kilometers away from the palace. Apart from appreciating a simple lifestyle of the Hmong, the surrounding area offers the spectacular panorama of Doi Inthanon. The village can be easily reached due to its proximity to Chiang Mai town, only 1 hour from there. In the village, local products and hill tribe handicrafts are sold.

Hmong Village-Mae Sa Mai is a place to appreciate the authentically traditional lifestyle of Hmong hill tribe people. The development from lowlands cannot reach the village so much that the Hmong here still retain their way of life, profession and also folk art skills. To reach the village, take the Mae Rim-Samoeng Route, and turn left at kilometer 12 for about 7 kilometers. The road is not paved and four-wheel-drive care is required.

Khob Dong Village is a Musser or Lahu village. The people here still live their lives so simply. The Royal project has been established here to implement Mussers to exert economic agriculture and handicraft. In front of the village, there is a demonstration and explanation of life and tradition of Lahu people by teachers and students in the village. By this way, you will appreciate their lifestyle and tradition without disturbing their privacy too much.

Ban Nor Lae Village is a community of the hill tribe people which recently migrated into the area in 1984, situated near Thai-Burmese border. The people here are Pa Laung who initially inhabited in Shan State, Myanmar. Pa Laungs speak a language related to the Mon-Khmer linguistic family. They are praised for their skills in raising corps. They are strict Buddhists and believe in nature as well as animal spirits. From the village, you get the panoramic view of the Thai-Burmese border ahead.

Lisu Village-Huai Nam Ru or Doi Sam Muen is located within the area of Chiang Dao district. Simple lifestyle of Lisu people together with magnificent scenery is worth visiting. Nowadays, people are encouraged to participate in Royal Project; there are cultivations of temperate plants like coffee and other flowering plants. The village is 130 kilometers away form Chiang Mai town along the Chiang Mai-Huai Nam Dang route; the journey takes 4 hours.

 

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